When I sold it the guy laughed as I told him It leaked around the neck that holds the cap on so I tried soldering it and the neck ring fell completely off the radiator. In fact my 64 Plymouth sport fury that set abandoned outside, never driven/started for ten yrs, just sat next to a barn before I bought it in 1995 and used it as a dd still had its original radiator in it when I sold it in 2000 thanks to a bottle of bars.lol I saw it in a car show a few yrs back, still all original, radiator too witch was amazing to me!! I have used bars stop leak in alot of my older cars without ever having any issues from that like some think it does. Some ran windshield washer fluid in them all winter.Yes' it works "sometimes".lol Alot of folks used to do that in summer time back in the day. Only replaced/re-cored a few of my rads period, most were neglected before I even bought them by running straight water. I have never had a heater core go bad in my life and most had very high miles. ![]() If its near -30/-40 your good to go 2 more yrs here. Im 52yrs old & Ive owned over 120 vehicles since I was 14yrs old and have always drained the radiator and added 1 gallon (1.5 big rads) of concentrate (never bought 50/50) then tested its temp range. I live in the center of the states so I see my share of temps. The white-capped Peak coolant can be found at Advance Auto (depending on location). Judging by the MSDS, it's safe to say that there are no borates or silicates. Another option is just using regular Peak or Autozone coolant (both have white caps) as they both contain phosphate (as required by Japanese automakers). I would rather use Peak Global as it meets JASO M235 and JIS K 2234 standards and costs under $17 per gallon at NAPA (they can get it from the warehouse upon request). BTW, red coolant is expensive ($30+ per gallon) I may be wrong, but the Toyota may not recommend doing a full coolant flush and use red coolant on 2004 and up models. One would have to buy a gallon of full strength red coolant branded as Toyota (long life coolant or LLC), Pentofrost A1, or Beck Arnley Red to get the proper dilution. I can't see myself using Zerex or the Pink Stuff (super long-life coolant or SLLC) after doing a complete cooling system flush since these premixed coolants will be further diluted with the residual water in the system.
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